Live Forever
How quitting Surfline led me to better health.
I went to the doctor this morning. Annual physical exam. A “check up.” Before I had children those lines I just wrote were not something I had ever written or uttered. Barring a knife to the neck, I was not going to the doctor. I avoided it by any means necessary. Super glue and gangrene were more common than blood pressure readings.
Until recently, I had not been to the doctor since I was probably 19 — and that was for a shoulder injury that my doctor said was not injured despite the fact that I was unable to move it. I never went back. Besides, I’d rather not know. “Down with the ship!” was the pact I had with my body.
But things change. And there I was, coughing while looking into the doc’s eyes with a blood pressure cuff inflating around my arm. After lying about my drinking he informed me that my blood pressure reading was “much improved…the best we’ve had.”
In previous visits it was relayed that I ran a little hot in the blood pressure department. I was aware my family health history and given nickname of “T-Stress” were good indicators that my lifestyle as a hard drinking media mogul may finally be catching up with me.
But today, the news was good and I think I know why. It had nothing to do with caffeine, alcohol, supplements or exercise. I’m convinced it’s because I quit Surfline.
I cancelled my premium subscription to the only thing more constant in a surfer’s life than surf wax. A drastic lifestyle change after 25 years behind Big Brother’s surf binos. But it had to be done.
For more than two decades, I’ve known what the ocean looked like. At all times. Whether I could go or not. And it led to many serendipitous moments of scoring good waves at unlikely times. But it also led to heavy burdens. I would lose a weekend, a vacation, a visit with family stressing about “missing out” on a random glass-off. An offshore wind switch or a “combonesia” event I didn’t see coming or couldn’t get to. I would stew in my juices of not being there, marinating myself into a ball of regret and anxiety. A surfer’s torture chamber.
But similar to how we cut back on ice cream and gin and Del Taco, we do what we can for our well being. And for me, so far quitting Surfline has led to the greatest physical exam I’ve ever had. And I feel great. I’ve even put in a request with longevity guru Bryan Johnson — the guy who has spent millions of dollars researching how to stay alive longer to add “Delete Surfline from your life” to his recent checklist of longevity findings.
Oh, and I have a quick proof of concept for you too: Last Saturday I had a great day and it didn’t involve surfing. Yes, it happens.
I woke early, hit the hottest cafe in Los Angeles with my girls, the amazing Max and Helen’s in Larchmont. No wait for a table. On a Saturday! How! The kids were angels and we feasted on pancakes and bacon and eggs and we will so be back. I see why even the British are writing about the adorable diner in LA. It’s that good.
We then perused the book store next door and my wife surprised me with a new book I will no doubt love (she’s is batting a1.000 with recommendations for me). It is by Ben Lerner and called Transcription — I’m so excited to read it that I’m scared.
We then walked the new David Geffen galleries at LACMA, snacked at the Erewhon cafe, got free tickets til the girls are 18 (great deal at the museum going if you have kids) before stopping for the most enjoyable Mexican meal you can have at the always fun El Coyote of Once Upon a Time in Hollywood fame. I was pig-in-the-mud happy driving home.
I later learned that the waves were pumping all day — but without a Surfline app I didn’t ask, and it didn’t tell. I live where I am. I exist in the now. I am free to have a nice day without the torment of missed waves.
The following day, I went surfing. When I could. It was great, and conditions were what they were. I left better. I’m at a point in life where if I can go surfing — I am going. I can read a forecast and get enough intel to know if I need to absolutely make myself available — otherwise I am going to live and surf every chance I get. And at this rate, I’ll likely live forever.—Travis Ferré
I’m convinced Surfline’s forecasts on the east coast deliberately show every 4th or 5th day out being fun, so we don’t collectively delete paid accounts if they showed the real forecast